Full bodied and with an aging potential, this fine wine should be drunk from 2018. It has concentrated butts and ripe black-cherry flavors. Pascal Aufranc 2015 Les Cerisiers Vieilles Vignes (Juliénas) $22, 92 points. Named after the cherry trees that edge this vineyard, the wine is rich and structured. That provides the tannin, while the clay and chalk topsoil give the fruit. The granite, Aufranc says, “runs like a highway through the heart of the Juliénas appellation.” The wines are certainly charmers, marked by flavors of black cherries, pepper and delicious acidity.įor all that appeal, Juliénas is one of three blue-granite hubs among the region’s crus. “It’s like drinking cherries, but with just enough tannin,” Aufranc says. Not that his range of wines couldn’t stop traffic by themselves. The steep, narrow road navigates up a side valley and runs right under his archway, and then stops. My last stop of the day, Pascal Aufranc’s winery, is literally at the end of the road. Age the first while you drink the second. Again, the wines take on differing styles: perfumed and structured from the granite, charming fruit on the plain. New plantings, with the vines trained on wires, make organic viticulture practical for a grower with just a few acres.ĭavid’s wines come from two areas of Juliénas: climat-worthy Vayolette, in the granite hills to the west, and La Bottière, on flat land to the east. The traditional bush vines prevalent in Beaujolais make it difficult to cultivate the soil without damaging the vines, says Louis-Clement David of Domaine David-Beaupère. Next, I meet one of the few organic growers in Beaujolais. “It’s like drinking cherries, but with just enough tannin.” -Pasacal Aufranc The two wines reflect the two sides of the appellation. But even in this wine, the bright fruit and charming accessibility epitomized by his Cuvée Tradition (aged in tank) are apparent. His wood-aged Tête de Cuvée (no pun on the family name intended, he says) is from blue granite, which provides concentration and ageability. It’s a voyage typical of the new generation that is taking over in Beaujolais. Sylvain, 27, works alongside his dad, Michel, after stints in Australia and New Zealand. Wine drinkers set up for the morning, while coffee drinkers stop for a quick shot of caffeine.Īt one end of the village, Sylvain Tête of Domaine du Clos du Fief pours me his wines. In the morning sun, the café in Juliénas comes to life.
What more could any wine drinker ask? Juliénas / Photo by Hemis /Alamy Juliénas Charm and Fruit They have fruit, structure and ageability, yet are easy to drink upon release. Wines from these crus can stand against many fine Burgundies, and at a fraction of the price. The others are Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Régnié and Saint-Amour. Of the 10 crus, the five you’re most likely to find are Juliénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Morgon and Brouilly. Thank You! We've received your email address, and soon you will start getting exclusive offers and news from Wine Enthusiast.
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